This article applies to all ecobee thermostats except Smart, Smart SI, EMS and EMS SI.
- Check to make sure that your R/RC/RH wire is connected to the RC terminal
- Check that all wires are properly inserted into the terminal blocks on the ecobee by giving the wires a gentle tug to ensure they’re securely connected
- If you’ve installed the PEK with the ecobee3 lite or ecobee4, verify the wiring at your ecobee looks as follows:
- R wire >> RC terminal
- G wire >> C terminal
- W wire >> W1 terminal
- Y wire >> PEK terminal
- Check the wiring on the furnace control board to ensure that your C wire is connected to the C terminal. If you’ve installed the PEK, the C wire coming off the PEK must be connected to the C terminal on the board
If you’ve verified that the wiring is correct, then there’s a good chance the issue is voltage-related. You can check the voltage yourself if you have a voltmeter; test for voltage between the RC and C wires at the ecobee—anything less than 24VAC will not power the ecobee.
- Ensure that the power is turned on from the circuit breaker
- Some furnaces have a safety switch that cuts off power to the equipment if the equipment cover panel is not closed properly. Please ensure the cover panel of the furnace is closed properly
- Inspect the fuse on the actual furnace control board (typically a 3 or 5 amp fuse). A blown fuse will need to be replaced
- If you’re not using the PEK, a short in the C wire could also be an issue (often accompanied by a clicking sound at the thermostat). Try either installing the PEK or re-purposing one of your wires as a C. If the ecobee powers on, there must be an issue with the C wire itself
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